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After searching for a vacation spot for a long time, I decided to visit "Nan," a small northern city full of ancient art, culture, and captivating nature. Originally, I planned to visit at the beginning of the year when the weather was cool, but due to work commitments, I ended up going in mid-March (March 15-18).
I then started planning the trip, and I should mention that this trip also included a search for the Milky Way on the mountain. Once everything was set, the group and I began our journey early on March 15, departing from Bangkok and heading towards Nan, a small, warm city. The trip took about 8 hours, arriving around 3 PM.
For the first two days, the plan was to explore Nan city, immersing ourselves in the local way of life. I chose to stay at Lilawadi Resort, located about 5 kilometers from the city center.
After checking into the hotel, we went out for dinner in Nan city and enjoyed a little sightseeing. We stumbled upon a noodle shop called “Without Peer,” located in front of Ban Don School. This place serves noodles with tender, flavorful meat—definitely a 10 out of 10.
Next, we visited Wat Phra That Khao Noi to pay respects and wish for a safe and pleasant trip. The temple is located on Khao Noi Mountain, west of Nan city. It was built during the reign of Chao Pu Khaeng in 1530. The stupa is made of brick and mortar, reflecting a blend of Burmese and Lanna styles.
The view from behind the stupa is quite majestic.
From Wat Phra That Khao Noi, you can see the surrounding landscape of Nan city. Currently, there is a large Buddha statue, Phra Buddha Maha Udommongkhol Nan, on a 9-meter high lotus base. The Buddha's hair is made of 27 baht of gold and was built to celebrate His Majesty the King's 72nd birthday on December 5, 1999.
On the second morning, we had a delicious breakfast at the resort. The breakfast was really tasty, and the service was excellent—genuinely impressive.
At 10 AM, we headed out to explore the city. Our first stop was the Rim Nan Art Gallery, about 20 km from the city. It serves as a hub for Nan's art and culture, established and managed by local artist Winai Prapripoo, who spent over 5 years creating this artistic destination.
We got a bit carried away at the art gallery, so we stopped by Khao Soi Ban Thai Lue for lunch. Luckily, the restaurant had enough food for our group, and we ended up closing the place. The khao soi here was delicious, rich with northern flavors.
After lunch, we visited Wat Si Mongkol, an old temple with royal recognition of the highest degree since 1852. The temple features interesting sights, including the main hall with mural paintings and the Mongkol Dhamma Rangsri Museum, which houses various antiques. It's a beautiful place with plenty of photo opportunities.
We then went to Wat Phuket. Despite the name, it's not in the south but rather in the north. It's located near a small village called Baan Ket. The northern locals refer to the hill as Phu or Doi, which is the origin of the name Wat Phuket.
Below the temple, in the nearby village, there's a place called Tub Na Thai Lue, where you can enjoy coffee in a rustic style.
As it was getting late, we visited Wat Phumin in the city, near the National Museum of Nan. This temple was built around 1539 by Chao Jettaphuttharom, the ruler of Nan.
Inside the ordination hall, there are four large Buddha statues facing each of the four doors, all in the Mara Victory posture.
Admire the four-sided ordination hall.
The famous mural painting, “Poo Marn Ya Marn,” depicts a legendary love story. Painted between 1867-1874 by artist Nan Bua Phan, it portrays traditional Lue attire and symbolizes eternal love.
After visiting this temple, we encountered a night market and a traditional food festival organized in front of the temple (coinciding with the Nan provincial sports event). We enjoyed the local food and the warm atmosphere.
The advantages of this province include the friendly Nan people, a relaxed lifestyle, and a plethora of old temples in the city. Exploring Nan was enjoyable and not tiring at all.
On the third day, breakfast at the hotel remained delicious and unchanged. We checked out to prepare for the adventure of searching for the Milky Way on Doi Samed Dao that night.
We continued exploring the city, starting with Wat Sri Pan Ton, built by the ruler of Nan from the Phuka dynasty around 1960-1969. The temple features a beautiful hall with sparkling golden decor and seven-headed naga statues on the stair railings.
Before heading to the mountain, we visited Lilawadi Pavilion, the National Museum of Nan, another landmark that attracts tourists for photos and check-ins.
Opposite Lilawadi Tunnel is Wat Phra That Chang Kham, a stupa influenced by Sukhothai art. It houses a Sukhothai-style stupa from around the 20th Buddhist century. We stopped by to pay respects.
Wat Phra That Chae Haeng is a sacred site for the people of Nan, located about 2 km from the city. It is over 600 years old and was built in 1891 to enshrine relics from Sukhothai.
After a fun day, it was time to prepare supplies for an adventurous overnight stay in tents on the mountain. After gathering supplies, we headed to Doi Samed Dao.
However, due to low tourist activity, Doi Samed Dao was closed for maintenance since March 1 (we didn't check beforehand, so we missed out). The park staff suggested camping at Phachao, about 2 km away, which also offers a beautiful atmosphere, though slightly less impressive than Doi Samed Dao.
We took some photos of Doi Samed Dao, feeling a bit regretful about not staying there, but still enjoyed the view.
Arriving at Phachao, we learned the local legend: The story of a tragic love involving characters who jumped off the cliff in sorrow. This legend explains the origin of the names of local landmarks.
Tonight was very lucky, with a clear sky full of stars. The weather was pleasant—cool but not cold, perfect for stargazing.
The Milky Way hunt began. We woke up at 3 AM to set up the camera and capture the stars at Phachao. Despite the challenges, it was a wonderful experience in a city full of cultural and natural beauty. Nan will be remembered fondly for a long time.
Before leaving, we packed up the tent and took some sunrise photos before saying goodbye.
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